Les Grès – Lindry FR
Les Grès: “The natural Bistronomie way in the middle of nowhere”
Chef: Jérome Bigot
Our last stop of the summer holiday was the beautiful area around Auxerre, this time not chosen specifically for a ‘Chablis’ wine tasting but for a new bistronomical discovery. We were inspired in visiting Restaurant Les Grès by following various chefs and foodies, a place where chefs eat is always worth a visit. Well our presumption has been fully confirmed!
Jérome Bigot made his move 1,5 year ago from bustling Paris to the countryside of the Yonne Region. The passionate autodidact changed his job as a painter into this new culinary challenge, becoming a kitchen artist. Restaurant Les Grès is located in the small town ‘Lindry’, just 10 minutes away from Auxerre. The Yonne region is a true inspiration for a relaxing weekend. When arriving in Lindry you cannot miss the picturesque restaurant facade as the former village ‘bartabac’ was turned into a gastro-bistro. The interior is very basic and that suits the concept for full. Wooden tables and chairs authenticate the no-nonsense style.
Chef and natural wine inspirator Jérome really hit the jackpot by marrying Marie-Hélène Tardiff. Marie-Hélène originally from Quebec-Canada makes you directly feel at home and is an amazing passionate guide for all wine choices. As an admirer of the true natural wines she will assist you with a perfect wine pairing. The symbiosis definitely works, Bistronomie at a high level!
The menu should not give you too much stress as Jérome has only one menu, 7 courses for 49€ or 79€ for the ‘menu Carafe’ with natural wine pairing. You can be assured that the walk through Jérome’s daily inspiration will impress you.
At arrival we were seated on the terrace by Marie-Hélène. The plastic tables with burlap tablecloths don’t give that much comfort but today the sex on the plate is why we are visiting Lindry. Jérome starts with a combination of cockles, zucchini spaghetti, mint and curry. An excellent start and definitely with the suggested wine pairing: Les Acacias 2010 – a Cour Cheverny from the Loire.
With his first dessert Jérome really blew me away. He served a great combination of carrot sorbet, caramelized carrot, yoghurt ‘reine des près’ and trout eggs. What an amazing and challenging combination of sweetness and salty touches.
We didn’t regret driving all the way to Les Grès in Lindry as we had an unforgettable experience meeting two food & wine passionate craftsman. It is beautiful to see how passion can lead to culinary innovation and great to find such a charming place in the middle of nowhere. Jérome and Marie-Hélène: should you ever consider moving out of Lindry, the Belgian doors are open as we adore such great ‘bistronomie’ concepts. CY Soon,
Be-GustoLes Grès 9, Rue du 14-Juillet, 89240 Lindry TEl: +33 9 52 31 64 10 Facebook Les Grès Monday, Tuesday and Saturday-lunch closed Be-Gusto score: 14,5/20 & ‘coup de coeur’ for natural wines