Kadeau – Bornholm DK

Kadeau – Bornholm Denmark: Organic Nordic Cuisine

Chef & co-owner: Nicolai Nørregaard

Co-owners & Inspirators: Rasmus Kofoed & Magnus Hoegh Kofoed

My first culinary trip to Copenhagen two and a half years ago triggered the start of our restaurant blog Be-Gusto. The experience gave us so many excitements that we could not resist in adding them online for life. When über-foodie Laurent Vanparys from One Bite Consulting & Gastros on Tour asked me to join a group of culinary addicts to travelling to Denmark, my answer was easy. Back to Denmark, yes we can! The highlight of the two-day trip was meeting the ‘Kadeau’ boys in their restaurants. While we were there we ceased the opportunity and added several other restaurant-visits: Relae, Kiin Kiin and Manfreds, we will review these later.

Rasmus, Nicolai and Magnus are native Bornholm boys and have been friends since they were at school together.  In 2007 the friendship and mutual passion for Bornholm ingredients resulted in opening the ‘Kadeau’ restaurant on the island Bornholm. At the time they opened they hadn’t intended to serve high-end gastronomy. A former beach pavilion serving tearoom stuff was transferred into a bistro. Very quickly their success, appreciation and the worldwide attention for Nordic Cuisine, made Kadeau grow to a next level. As the little island in the Baltic Sea relies on tourism, the restaurant is open mainly during summer. For that reason restaurant Kadeau Bornholm is closed during the winter so in 2011 Nicolai and Magnus opened a second little restaurant in the Vesterbrogade in Copenhagen city centre. Only a few months after opening the restaurant was already too small or the success was too big! Kadeau Copenhagen moved to an old office building near Noma and the little restaurant became a bistro named Pony. Again success followed the owners of the 3 restaurants and Michelin granted a first star to Kadeau Copenhagen in 2012, on top of this they were elected best restaurant of the year in Copenhagen.

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

The heart and vision of Kadeau stays nevertheless in Bornholm. Kadeau is not a simple story; it is an evolution over several years. It is that specific way of life that makes a visit to Kadeau Bornholm so special. Really it is a must-go for every foodie visiting Denmark during summer. Bornholm is a Danish island in the Baltic Sea. Located to the east of Denmark, south of Sweden and north of Poland. During our arrival tour of the island the traditional island industries were clearly visible: fishing, pottery crafts, dairy farming and fish smoking. We traveled from the pine forests by the farmland to the south of the island, with its sandy beaches.

Picture by Spanish Hipster

Picture by Spanish Hipster

Kadeau Bornholm DenmarkChef Nicolai Nørregaard is a self-made chef. He did not follow the traditional way in becoming a kitchen chef but driven on the culinary background his family has by owning a herring smokery, Nicolai developed and trained himself as the passionate Bornholm top-chef. His knowledge of the Bornholm products and terroir is essential and this is translated into refined dishes with purely natural and Nordic food.

Picture by Spanish Hipster

Picture by Spanish Hipster

Co-owners Rasmus and Magnus create a professional, very friendly but no-nonsense atmosphere in their restaurants. Wines are carefully selected and always have an organic touch. These wines compliment Nicolai’s dishes, which always have nice balances in acidity & sweetness and bring together the best from the forests, herb fields and Baltic Sea.

Before we enter the restaurant and drone experience I would like to present our partners in crime with whom we spent one of the most fascinating weekends: CookCooning, Spanish Hipster, Blind Tasting Club, En Foodie, Gastros on tour &  One Bite Consulting.

Drone picture by Spanish Hipster

Drone picture by Spanish Hipster

Travelling from Copenhagen to Bornholm is very easy and can be done by boat from Koge Denmark (5.5 hours) or by airplane from Copenhagen (30 minutes). DAT airlines offers return tickets for around 100€. After being personally responsible for the emergency aspects during the DAT flight we arrived in Bornholm where Rasmus popped-up as being a perfect host for the exuberant gastros!

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Bornholm has various lodging possibilities and besides some mid-scale hotels there are several houses for rent. We had the pleasure of discovering (as the first guests) a beautiful new renting possibility in a luxury styled little castle with 7 bedrooms.

Picture by Gastros on tour

Picture by Gastros on tour

No words can describe the magic that happened that evening. The welcome was spontaneous and warm. We enjoyed our glass of Champagne magnum Jacques Lassaigne ‘Les Vignes de Montgueux’ extra brut on the terrace overlooking the beachfront. It was here that our ‘drone’ magician Jose started the show. Restaurant guests could not follow what was happening during their cozy & romantic dinner. Restaurant owners be warned as soon every blogger will enter your kitchen with a drone in order to take that unexpected and story telling picture.

Picture by Spanish Hipster

Drone picture by Spanish Hipster

Picture by Spanish Hipster

Picture by Spanish Hipster

Ready for take off we installed ourselves on the terrace, next to the brazier with a fabulous view over the coast & Baltic Sea. Kadeau offers a 4-course menu for 600 dkk (80€), a 6-course for 750 dkk (100€) or the full show in 8-courses for 950 dkk (125€). Just go all the way…

Kadeau Bornholm Denmark

New potatoes in a tin were filled with smoked herring inside.

Picture by Spanish Hipster

Picture by Spanish Hipster

Green asparagus sprouts came with dried rose hips and turbot roe.

Picture by Spanish Hipster

Picture by Spanish Hipster

Marvellous dried beetroot was flavored with yellow beet powder & dried yeast and was served with a cream of cabbage and garlic.

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Unforgettable Black prawns with a pollen & yeast mayonnaise and crumble of lentils seeds & garden flowers.

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Squid on burned bread with sloe vinegar and a sunflower seeds purée showed the intense finesse Nicolai serves.

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Lacto fermented and fried onions, blackcurrant leaves.

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Simplicity rules with perfect Gravad duck & blackcurrant dust.

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Nice to see a simple bunch of fresh flowers from the garden turned into a delicious appetizer with redcurrant wine, vinegar & beet roses.

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Teatime with a classic Chinese tea: the herb infused onion cress tea was unbelievable and amazing!

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Once seated inside the restaurant, the wine minister and Magnus started with a magnificent glass of Villemade ‘La Bodice’ 2012 magnum from Cheverny – Loire. The elegance of this organic white wine gave the right harmony in order to accompany a superb combination with blue mussels, green peas, flowers, beans, green pickled strawberries and arrowgrass.

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

A pleasing combination of hay smoked mackerel with leek, fermented celeriac, hemp and hemp oil. In the glass came the Terres Burgondes 2011 from Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot Burgundy.

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Onions, matured cheese, last year’s red berries & burned hay ash show not only respect for the local terroir but enjoy a very intense flavour. The wine-pairing was one of my favourites with a delicious glass of rosé Champagne Saignee de Sorbée 2010 from Vouette & Sorbée.

Picture by Spanish Hipster

Picture by Spanish Hipster

A delicious langoustine combined with cauliflower, nuts, pickled asparagus, lemon herbs, cauliflower emulsion, withered sorrel, brown butter & gooseberry reduction was one of the highlights of the evening with perfectly balanced textures and delicate tastes. This dish married perfectly with our Arbois Pupillin 2011, chardonnay from Maison Pierre Overnoy in the Jura.Kadeau Bornholm Denmark

Exceptional cooking going on in Bornholm! A nice piece of turbot with crispy side was served with fried herbs, burnt kale emulsion, sauce of roasted butter and cheese whey. And then I fell in love with this exquisite wine, Puligny-Montrachet 2012 from Cossard, Burgundy.Kadeau Bornholm Denmark

Next was another forest dish with porridge of spelt, mushrooms from last fall, broth of mushrooms, lichen and spruce. Next to it another organic explosion with the Savagnin wine ‘Les Vignes de mon Père 2003’ from Jean Francois Ganevat – Jura.

Picture by Spanish Hipster

Picture by Spanish Hipster

Great to see a humble piece of grilled pork belly being turned into a delicious dish with carrots & herbs that have been dehydrated and fried, yoghurt sauce and blackcurrant BB-Q. The cold yoghurt sauce did not balance completely with the intense taste of the pork. An assemblage of grenache & carignan with animal aromas was served with the KM31, Domaine Yoyo 2013 from Roussillon.

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

Picture by Stéphanie Biteau

As a first desert Nicolai served salted caramel with whipped cream, frozen yoghurt mousse, sugar roasted potatoes, radish and a superb juice of elderflower. In the glass Le Petit Beaufort Demi Sec 2007 was served from Alice Beaufort Burgundy.

Picture by Spanish Hipster

Picture by Spanish Hipster

Strawberries, beetroot gel, beach rose, cream of fermented late summer honey and strawberries with the sweet Strohmeier a’siassa no6 from Weststeiermark Austria.Kadeau Bornholm Denmark

We finished this amazing dinner around the campfire sharing our thoughts on this fantastic combination of terroir food and organic wines.

Visiting Kadeau Bornholm guarantees a high quality dining experience with its exceptional cuisine and high doses of creativity with local Bornholm products. Chef Nicolai is a sensational food magician and impresses with his open mind in combining original ingredients and flavours. The Kadeau restaurant Bornholm equals one of my most impressive dining experiences and should be on everyone’s must-visit list. Special thanks to Team Kadeau, Laurent & the partners in crime for this amazing experience. CY soon,

Be-Gusto

Kadeau Bornholm
Baunevej 18, Vestre Sømark Pedersker
3720 Åkirkeby, CVR 30297016 DK
TEl: +45 56 97 82 50
www.kadeau.dk
Please see online for restaurant openings
Be-Gusto score: 18/20
 
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