A.T. Atsushi Tanaka – Paris

A.T. Paris: the Picasso of the kitchen

 Online Reservations
4 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, 75005 Paris
0033 1 56 81 94 08
www.atsushitanaka.com

Closed Sunday and Monday

Chef: Atsushi Tanaka

Atsushi Tanaka is a real culinary artist. We started following him few years ago on social media and his artwork often got our attention. After a tour around Europe he choose bustling Paris, the centre of ‘Bistronomy’ for his first restaurant A.T.

His cooking style is not Japanese, French, Mediterranean nor Scandinavian. It is a mix. His way of cooking captures the influence of various culinary techniques that include Japanese, Nordic, molecular gastronomy and classic French cuisine. The result is a very creative, light and intense style.

His long and impressive resume includes artists like Pierre Gagnaire in Paris, Quique Dacosta (Denia), Pastorale (Antwerp) and Sergio Herman’s Oud Sluis, as well as top-Scandinavian restaurants such as Geranium in Copenhagen, and Frantzén and Oaxen Krog, both in Stockholm.

The restaurant’s location in the 5th arrondissement is very central and close to the Notre-Dame. One extended tasting menu with over 12 courses and snacks is served every evening (95€). For lunch there is a choice between a three course (35€), an extended one (55€) or the full tasting menu (95€).21836828608_626ec96f1e_z

We heard that today, 16 years after he started cooking with Pierre Gagnaire, the master himself refers to Atsushi Tanaka as “Picasso of the kitchen”. What a compliment! The chef sets a new revolution in culinary Paris and his creations are a mixture of taste, colour and art. His plates breathe simplicity but always have subtle flavours. He likes to impress with dishes uses a lot of different textures from just that one ingredient.

The wine selection is fully natural which is the best pairing for his funky dishes. We noticed surprisingly a big selection from Spain and Italy. Recently the chef also hired sommelier David Benichou (ex vivant table) to run a cosy natural wine bar in the cellar space of the restaurant.

The looks of this new bistronomy place are very zen with a design combining concrete, steel, and black materials. The big table tops were manufactured in a raw glazing not only to retain the materials authenticity but to make its upkeep easier. Seating was very comfortable. A coloured woodwork construction reminded me the artwork of Arne Quinze in restaurant De Pastorale. We started our impressive tasting menu with a so loved glass of André Beaufort brut Nature.

Chips of rice and coal with cream of rice and oxalis plant.A.T. Atsushi Tanaka - Paris

A delicious marinated leek with dots of brown butter.A.T. Atsushi Tanaka - Paris

The cake of peppers with green beans and a cream of paprika had intense flavours and good variation in different textures.A.T. Atsushi Tanaka - Paris

Bass with fennel and kalamansi was served with a decoration of powder made from green sea kale. Great look but less tasteful.A.T. Atsushi Tanaka - Paris

Mussels and young carrots, leaf and a broth from the mussels.A.T. Atsushi Tanaka - Paris

The extra dish that could be ordered today was his Foie gras dish. It came with Indian long pepper and merengue with coal. The foie gras was mi-cuit with the breadcrumbs of coal and a cream of bergamot, which gave it a nice touch.A.T. Atsushi Tanaka - Paris

Camouflage dish: arctic char, juniper, parsley and granite of smoked cheese. A bit of funky dish with pleasant acidity, finesse and character.A.T. Atsushi Tanaka - Paris

Oyster was served with green peas and lovage oil.A.T. Atsushi Tanaka - Paris

Atsushi impressed with perfect textures and technique serving his gambas with white asparagus, beets, rhubarb and a jus of gamba.A.T. Atsushi Tanaka - Paris

Hake filet was served with green asparagus, razor clams, broccoli and a velouté of green asparagus.A.T. Atsushi Tanaka - Paris

Galician beef with kohlrabi, little onions and a sauce of rosemary.A.T. Atsushi Tanaka - Paris

Fresh cherries with hinoki (cypres), sorbet of cherry and poivre des Cimes.A.T. Atsushi Tanaka - Paris

Financier with parsley, textures of sorrel, strawberries, merengue and sponge cake.A.T. Atsushi Tanaka - Paris

Chef Atsushi Tanaka is a creative culinary artist, a new sensation in the fifth arrondissement. His plating is exceptional and colourful. No doubt that A.T. is on our Paris list to revisit!

Sunday the 11th of October Atsushi will be cooking in Belgium! Restaurant ‘Benoit & Bernard Dewitte‘ invite Atsushi Tanaka to co-create a dinner extraordinaire at the cosy villa hidden behind a hedge at the luscious Belgian country side. See Bon Vivant

Be-Gusto

 

Be-Gusto score:                         15,5/20

Be-Gusto price/quality score: 16/20

 

A.T. Restaurant

4 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, 75005 Paris

Tel: +33 1 56 81 94 08

Métro : Cardinal Lemoine – Maubert – Mutualité

www.atsushitanaka.com

Closed Sunday and Monday

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One Response to “A.T. Atsushi Tanaka – Paris”
  1. Great review Frank! I will have lunch at A.T. in the end of October.

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