Reinstoff – Berlin
Reinstoff Berlin: Pure is the essence
ONLINE RESERVATIONS | |
Schlegelstrasse 26c, 10115 Berlin – Germany | |
+49 30 3088 1214 | |
www.reinstoff.eu |
Reinstoff is on the top of the Berlin scene with two Michelin stars and an 18 on 20 score with Gault&Millau. Chef Daniel Achilles started the restaurant with his wife and general manager Sabine Demel. Before opening Reinstoff he gained experience in several fine-dining restaurants like Schloss Berg in Perl-Nennig, Fährhaus Munckmarsch on the isle of Sylt and Amador in Langen. Only few years after opening his own restaurant he is widely recognized as being one of the most impressive chefs of Germany. He was also awarded Gault & Millau Chef of the Year in 2014.
Reinstoff is housed in the historic Edison Courtyards in the Mitte district. The Courtyard is so named, as it was here that the first light bulbs in Germany were manufactured few decades ago. The brick houses were reconstructed down to detail. This allows one to imagine the dynamic industrial architecture characterizing Berlin. The special industrial feeling continues to live on once you enter the restaurant with its original brick walls, tall glass windows, old iron columns and metal pipes. Centrepiece in the design is the canopy inside of the restaurant with 240 silver glass balls of different sizes, which brings charm and elegance to the four-meter high Prussian vaulted ceilings. Several mirrors placed on all sides enhance the sense of space.
The name ‘reinstoff’ describes the basis of each dish, which is the use of matter (‘stoff’ in German) that is as pure (‘rein’ in German) as possible. His kitchen presents a light and modern style with a particularly elegant, pure and refreshing, often-vegetal touch. With his two menus ‘ganznah’ and ‘weiterdraußen’, the chef presents his guests a level of complexity unmatched in Berlin.
The ‘ganznah’ tasting menu has a focus more on classic dishes where produce from Germany is used almost exclusively. It is evident that the seasons automatically play a major role in this menu. The menu ‘weiterdraußen’ reflects the inspiration and motivation of the chef to continuously progress with as much complexity as possible. With weiterdraußen, he aims to offer his guests an experience unique to Berlin. The dishes are artistic and inspired by current trends.
During our tasting all dishes were served with the corresponding wines, carefully chosen by sommelier and restaurant manager Pascal Kunert. He managed to put each wine in perfect harmony with the according dish. Natural wines, beers and special local products are often used but only if guests want to join the more adventurous pairing.
We started with a Sekt Reinstoff 2007 brut nature as aperitif. With 8 year ageing on the yeast this Pfalzer riesling showed full body fruitiness, balance and finesse.
The appetizers came all together with first mackerel Müllerin. Than came a marshmallow of tomato, a jerusalem artichoke which was crispy and filled with quince and a clear cepes soup.
Winter evening (Wintzerabend): cream of chestnut, sweet chestnuts, raw chestnut, apricot, jelly of sauerkraut, marjoram powder, black walnuts, marinated red cabbage and caramelized chestnut.
Scallops with radish, aloe vera, smoked corail, radish seed pods, shield-leaf sorrel and cappuccina cress
The Danish langoustine was prepared in two servings. At first the Seaweed Bao with claw of langoustine and a salad of seaweed. Than the roasted langoustine with beechnut risotto and cream of black trumpet mushrooms, seaweed, oyster leave, a delicious creamy sauce of langoustine and different seaweeds.
Bergsdorf mouflon lamb. As start the homemade Chorizo salami with crisps and cream of red pointed pepper and the spice mugwort in the chorizo sausage. Later on came the lamb, sous vide 54° prepared and than pan-fried with chervil tuber and edible wild greens.
As a refresher we were served ‘Elder & stone fruits’. Elderberry sorbet was covered with little merengue, rose hip, rowan and a spicy touch with the cream of Vino Chinato.
Saxon Quarkkäulchen: baked quark käulchen with juicy apple pieces in different varieties and roasted quark kaulchen. The soufflé is a Saxon recipe made with potato and quark, raisin, ice cream of rum, raisin and whey.
Mignardises; mushroom truffle, Kenyan coffee pearl, tamarind softcake and curry, ganache noir and roasted soybean.
Because restaurant Reinstoff is different, personally and focused on inspiration, you will enjoy an experimental but pure experience. Here, everyone may be as he is. This applies for the chef and his creations as well as for the guests enjoying the casual fine dining in a warm, natural and relaxed way.
Be-Gusto
Be-Gusto score: 16,5/20
Be-Gusto value for money: 16,5/20
Reinstoff
Schlegelstrasse 26c, 10115 Berlin – Germany
Phone: +49 30 3088 1214
Sunday & Monday closed
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