Relae – Copenhagen

Relae: the best example of Nordic bistronomy

Chef: Christian Puglisi

For our second foodie trip to Copenhagen it were not award winners Noma or Geranium that were on top of my ‘must do’ list, but the no nonsense restaurant Relae.Relae Copenhagen

The dishes of chef Christian Puglisi often look simple but are so tasteful one can conclude this is real culinary art. The concept is quite similar to the successful gastro-bistros in Paris like Chateaubriand, Septime and Saturne. It does not surprise me that Relae  is currently ranked Nr 53 on the World’s Best Restaurants list!

The talented chef Christian Puglisi was born in Italy but raised in Copenhagen. He gained experience in Le Taillevent, El Bulli and off course he was 2.5years the sous chef of Redzepi in Noma. Together with the worldwide experience of Kim Rossen, maitre and sommelier (also Noma) he opened this Nordic styled bistronomy restaurant in the Nørrebro area.

As stated by Kim and Christian, the focus is on gastronomy and everything considered a waste of time and energy is cut off. Great cuisine in a cool ambiance, funky design, a dynamic but casual atmosphere & really fun ambiance! The interior is stylish but basic with plain wooden tables and chairs. Inside the tables you will find a drawer with inside your menu, napkin and tableware for the evening. I still don’t understand why not more restaurants use this brilliant idea. Cut the crap just serve amazing food!Relae Copenhagen

At the entrance of the restaurant you have a bar with partly open kitchen and high bar seats were also several guests can eat.

Restaurant Relæ is serving a 4-course omnivore menu or a 4-course herbivore menu for 450dkk (60€). The extended menu with combinations of both menus can be ordered during dinner in 7-courses for 725dkk (95€). Knowing the status of sommelier Kim Rossen we strongly advise to go for the pairing wine option (685dkk-90€). The message on the papered menu explains the vision. Relæ works on focused and tasty food, no muss, no fuss. Everything is cut to the bone, no frames but the few hanging on the wall. Simplicity with quality comes first, great details are just beneath. “It’s our choice to be certified organic, because it’s worth it. Wine, we pick ‘em natural, you pour ‘em!”

On the other side of the street you will find the funky winebar Manfreds which is also managed by the Relæ team. We start our lunch with a Jolly rose wine at Manfreds with foodies ‘Gastros on Tour’, ‘Blind Tasting Club‘ and ‘OneBite Consulting‘. When entering Relæ we gather together with the ‘Spanish Hipster team’ and the start of an incredible lunch was given.

We kick of with the Italian rosé bubbels Il fric vendemmia 2013 and as appetizer raw & salted cucumber.Relae Copenhagen

The sourdough bread is magnificent and served with Sicilian olive oil.Relae Copenhagen

From the vegetarian menu we were served some delicious unripe strawberries with salted strawberry and nasturtium plant. The dish was paired with the Flora Weiss 2013 from weingut Michael Gindl in Austria.Relae Copenhagen

A colourful tartare dish blew us away. Relæ’s creation of venison tartare with peas and mint is just brilliant. Exceptional flavoured venison meat with a little sour touch and the freshness of the mint. This is the best tartare I have ever eaten. Kim matched this highlight with a great grolleau wine. Le Groll’n roll from domaine les vignes de Babass.Relae Copenhagen

A squid tagliatelle was topped with a dried shrimp crumble and lemon powder. I also liked the chenin wine Navine from Gaec des Griottes.Relae Copenhagen

Sunflower seeds were prepared in a risotto style with melted kornly goat cheese & pine shouts. This nice textural dish was served with a Danish cider from Kolster.Relae Copenhagen

Simplicity with lettuce & herbs. The green vegetable bouquet little steamed and came with elderflower and grilled cream of goat cheese.Relae Copenhagen

Than came a juicy and flavourful piece of pork neck with puree of blood sausage and grilled onions. Again the wine pairing was amazing with the 2012 Contandino 10 from Azienda Agricola Frank Cornelissen, a Belgian wine maker in Sicily.

Restaurant Relae will soon open a special Italian styled restaurant in the area and we had the pleasure to taste a delicious pizza with Danish hay cheese & fresh herbs. If this will be the level of wood-fire pizza’s they are set for a new success. The new restaurant will be called Bæst and focus on meat, gourmet pizza’s and more Mediterranean flavors. Just like the oxidized Chenin Memoire de Pionniers from the Loire we had, there will be organic wines.Relae Copenhagen

As a first dessert we were served the vanilla ice cream with dried raspberry and caramelized mustard. Surprisingly this dish was not very sweet and had a subtle touch of the caramelized mustard. In the glaas came the Rosé d’un jour 2013 from Mark Angeli, Ferme de la Sansonnière Anjou.Relae Copenhagen

We ended this great new visit with a sorbet of smoked almonds, crispy hop and granité of apple.Relae Copenhagen

Relae CopenhagenJust like our first visit the food at Relae is delicious, creative, tasteful and natural. An organic wine pairing is the best in order to achieve the great synergies between food and drinks. With the venison tartare Christian served us again a dish never to forget.  We would like to thank Christian, Kim and colleagues at restaurant Relæ for giving us such a memorable lunch. Hope to visit Copenhagen again soon!

Be-Gusto

Relæ
Jaegersborggade 41, 2200 Copenhagen, DK
TEl: +45 36.96.66.09
www.restaurant-relae.dk
Sunday & Monday, Tuesday closed
Be-Gusto score: 17/20

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